Return to USA via Switzerland

Sun 21 Nov: Nairobi, Kenya-->Zurich, Switzerland-->Boston, USA – Arrived in Zurich early morning, cringed at the bitter cold weather, train to Utlieberg, hiked nearby hill to stunning view of lake and Alps (unfortunately obstructed due to fog). Returned by train to Zurich, walked around main thoroughfare to lake, visited city’s three major churches and Swiss National Museum, shivered some more, shopping for chocolate, pastries and cheese at large train station market, train back to airport. Afternoon flight to Boston, greeted at 8PM EST by my lovely family at Logan Airport’s International Terminal!

KENYA: Travels 20-9 Nov

Sat 20 Nov: Nairobi – Packed and spent day at hostel. Departed for Carnivore Restaurant, renowned for its delicious variety of meats (see below). Our favorite by far was crocodile. While we feasted (yes, we tried everything), we thought about how happy Liz’s dad and mine would be, had they been there with us. Taxi to Nairobi airport, evening flights to Europe.

Carnivore Restaurant Menu
All Inclusive
Starters:
Ginger Carrot Soup ~ House Salad ~ Cole Slaw ~ Roasted Potatoes ~ Roasted Vegetables ~ Chickpea Salad
Meats:
Chicken ~ Turkey ~ Spare Ribs ~ Ostrich ~ Pork Chops ~ Pork Sausage ~ Crocodile ~ Lamb Chops ~ Lamb Sausage ~ Beef ~ Ox Testicles ~ Ox Heart
Sauces:
Tikka Masala ~ Fruit Salsa ~ Green Chili ~ Wildberry ~ Mint ~ Garlic ~ Sour Cream
Yum!
Fri 19 Nov: Mombasa-->Nairobi – 7:30AM bus to Nairobi left several hours late. Made friends with ailing street kittens while waiting. Arrived mid-evening.

Thurs 18 Nov: Diani Beach-->Mombasa – Morning at beach. Taxi/ferry to Mombasa. Visited Fort Jesus and old town, rode in tuk-tuks, slept intermittently due to extreme heat and resounding late night/early morning calls to prayer.


Wed 17 Nov: Diani Beach – Day at the beach. Rode camels and swam in Indian Ocean. Pre-dinner drinks at Ali Barbour’s Cave Restaurant, meaning, a restaurant in an authentic underground cave.

Tues 16 Nov: Mombasa-->Diani Beach – Arrived 6AM, took ferry and local bus to Diani Beach, arrived at Stilts Lodge, 200m from the beach where we stayed in tree-houses! Monkeys were everywhere and their stealing habits became problematic. Afternoon and evening spent relaxing on white sands of the Swahili Coast.

Mon 15 Nov: Lake Nakuru National Park-->Nairobi – Morning game drive around the lake, saw thousands of pink flamingos, storks and other large birds, rhinoceros, baby baboons playing, lioness with four cubs, zebra feeding her young and many giraffes. Drove back to Nairobi, overnight bus to Mombasa.



Sun 14 Nov: Maasai Mara, Narok, Great Rift Valley – Morning game drive through Mara, new sightings included wildebeest migrating, buffalo herding, lion and lioness mating. Visited Maasai Village, saw traditional jumping/dance demonstration and deplorable living conditions. Drove northwest to Lake Nakuru spotting zebras, baboons and buffalo along main highway.

Sat 13 Nov: Maasai Mara National Reserve – Full day game drive through park. New sightings included cheetah and cubs devouring a fresh kill, zebras and wildebeest crossing the river with hippos and crocodiles waiting, lions cuddling, leopard in a tree, ostriches, warthogs and their youngsters scurrying along (think Pumba from the Lion King), an eagle in its nest, spotted hyenas, multiple animal carcasses and a band of meercats.

Someone's running late for school...

Fri 12 Nov: Great Rift Valley, Narok, Maasai Mara National Reserve – PM game drive through Mara. Sightings included: zebras, giraffes, buffalo, impalas, LIONS, elephants, bushbacks, jackals, hot pink/purple lizards, wildebeest, baboons, monkeys. Our sightings started even before we arrived at the reserve, with a 20 foot giraffe crossing the road in front of our car.



Thurs 11 Nov: Karen – Visited Karen Blixen house (site of book/movie Out of Africa), marveled at her collection of fur rugs (lions, leopards, zebras, impalas…) Thought of S3 Maranyundo students celebrating their graduation with Rwanda’s first lady.
Wed 10 Nov: Nairobi - Met with safari tour operator at hostel, negotiated 4 day safari to Maasai Mara and Lake Nakuru starting on Friday, shopping for crafts and souvenirs at Nairobi’s City Market, dinner at South African burger chain in town, Liz arrived PM
Tues 9 Nov: Kampala-->Nairobi – Left Kampala at 6AM on Akamba Royal Class Bus to Nairobi which, for $7 more than the regular bus, featured:
-breakfast
-huge reclining seats with adjacent (though non-functioning) outlets
-fewer passengers - therefore fewer stops
-more humane bathroom breaks (this means 3 over the course of the 12 hour drive, rather than 1)
-a driver who helped us out of a sketchy passport-control issue at the border, and
-Viewing of Home Alone 1 and 2 on the 24” TV at the front, plus intermittent Thai sub-titles
Lunch was this angry-looking samaki, chips & posho for roughly $1

UGANDA: Travels 8-6 Nov

Mon 8 Nov: Lake Bunyonyi-->Kabable-->Kampala - Left Lake Bunyonyi for Kabale, eight hour bus ride (plus sitting for three on Kabale bus) to Kampala
Sun 7 Nov: Lake Bunyonyi - Beautiful four hour hike up Bunyonyi’s hillsides and around lake, swam, ate and drank in company of my amazing friends
Sat 6 Nov: Kigali-->Lake Bunyonyi - Said goodbye to neighborhood children in Kagarama with biscuits, photos, bubbles and other gifts, left Kigali with Alisa and Theo for Lake Bunyonyi, Uganda. Arrived four local buses and a taxi ride later around 7PM.

Theo with our little friends

RWANDA: Travels 5 Nov- 28 Oct

Fri 5 Nov: Kigali - City Tour led by our friend Christia, to town, Nyamirambo, Belgian soldiers memorial, stadium, and Kanombe: house of ex-President Habyarimana, who died in a plane crash that landed in his backyard evening preceding onset of 1994 Genocide. Visited Christia’s house and drank BIG glasses of milk from her family’s cows (Alisa’s favorite part).

Thurs 4 Nov: Gitarama, Eastern Province – Visited Urukundo, Mama Arlene’s Children’s Home, delivered toys and other items long overdue! Lunch with Brother Stratton, dinner (brochette and potatoes – see below) in Nyamirambo with Gatete and Theo, preceded by witnessing a moto accident and assisting an injured girl in this bustling neighborhood. Visited Gatete’s grandfather who is nearly 100! And at the end of the night, visited a hole-in-the-wall music shop for African beats



Wed 3 Nov: Nyamata --> Kigali - Took Alisa on run through Maranyundo hillside, met some little friends along the way. Packed, returned to Kigali, visited Kimironko Market for Alisa’s souvenirs, to choose fabric and get African dresses made. Visited Theo’s family at their home, visited with Diana, her sister and baby at Kagarama.
Alisa en moto

Tue 2 Nov: Nyamata - 7AM taught final English class at Bugesera District Office. Visited Ntarama Genocide Memorial, followed by Nyamata Market. Goodbye party with teachers and friends at Red Lion Pub.

Mon 1 Nov: Kigali --> Nyamata, Eastern Province – Arrived back at Maranyundo School to show Alisa, hung out with S3 students and school staff, visited Nyamata Genocide Memorial
Sun 31 Oct: Cyangugu --> Kigali - 8 hour bus back to Kigali through Nyungwe Forest (this time with monkey sightings!) Alisa arrived from Uganda, dinner at Chez Lando
Sat 30 Oct, Umuganda, national morning of service: Cyangugu - Morning run (with new-found little friends) along lakeshore, into town and back, then swimming in Lake Kivu. We swam within 100 meters of DRC! Explored the region on foot.


Bridge to DRC


Fri 29 Oct: Kigali --> Cyangugu, Western Province - Left with Theo for Cyangugu, a beautiful spot located on Lake Kivu and the DRC border town of Bukavu, also where Theo was born. 8 hour bus ride through Nyungwe Forest, rife with coffee and tea plantations, lush greenery and many rainbows following the seasonal downpours. Drinks with friends at a nearby lakeside restaurant.


Thurs 28 Oct: Nyamata, Eastern Province - Said goodbye to Maranyundo’s S1/S2 (7th/8th grade) students. S3 (9th grade) students will remain at school for the next few weeks to take their high-stakes national exams, which will determine their admittance to high school. Distributed photos and letters to all students.

Student Field Trip to Nyanza

Agashya Factory - 2009
Every year our students take a class field trip to a different location in Rwanda. Last year I accompanied the S1 (7th grade) students on a field trip to a factory and plantation where fruit (passion, pineapple, banana, strawberry, papaya) and vegetables (carrot, green pepper, onion, cabbage) are harvested for the production and domestic distribution of juices, beers and wines. The founder of this business, which features the popular Agaysha passion juice concentrate, is a respected self-made Rwandan entrepreneur called Gerard Sina. He has used his successful business to employ thousands of Rwandans and has also started a primary school near the major plantations to educate the workers’ children free of charge.


King's Palace - 2010
This year, I accompanied the now S2 (8th grade) students on their class field trip to Nyanza, a city south of Kigali which had been capital of the Kingdom of Rwanda in years past. The main reason to visit is to see the King’s Palace. The traditional ancient palace of the king (mwami in Kinyarwanda) is reconstructed on the grounds of the more modern palace built for Mwami Rudahigwa Mutara III by the Belgians in 1932. The ancient palace, which represents the way of life of kings before the colonial invasion, is a tall, sturdy grass hut with interior wood columns, a spacious main room with small stools for sitting, and an adjacent bedroom. The guide informed us that the king, queen and his concubines each had separate entrances to the palace and even the bedroom; no man was permitted to use the same entrance as the king.

The modern palace, built for the last monarch prior to Rwandan independence (Mwami Mutara III), was less interesting to me than the ancient palace. Built in the Western Style and situated on a hill, it featured a main sitting room, a dining area, several bedrooms, a kitchen with an underground storeroom to keep things cool, and an elaborate front patio area with a beautiful view. There was also a cement room on the far end of the house akin to a garage, with a large berth in the ground for mechanics to enter in case the King’s car needed maintenance performed underneath. For more information on the history of Rwanda, please refer to my 3/12/09 entry, “Brief Political History”.

Rwesero Art Museum
In addition to visiting the King’s Palace, we also visited a beautiful house on a nearby hillside that Mutara III had built for him and his wife’s retirement. Unfortunately, Mutara III was killed by Belgians officials in 1959 during a state-sanctioned visit to Burundi. The beautiful structure, which his wife occupied until her 1994 death, now been transformed into an outstanding art museum. Photos of some of the artwork that struck me due to their social implications are pictured below:

"Rwanda, progressive country in contemporary development" (2009)/Leon Kofi Kankolongo

"Behold 2006"/Jean Claude Sekijege

Trekking Mountain Gorillas

This has been a week full of animal adventures! Three days after visiting Akagera Game Reserve, I traveled with Theo and Burch via public bus to Musanze (formerly Ruhengeri) in the northeast corner of Rwanda. A few weeks prior we purchased permits from the Rwandan Tourism Office to hike Volcanoes National Park and spend an hour in the company of a troupe of silverback mountain gorillas. These endangered animals live in groups of 10-20 and are among the only remaining of their kind throughout the world, scattered in this mountainous area composed of seven inactive volcanoes, where Uganda, Rwanda and DRC converge. The region is stunning in its beauty, dense in bamboo and rainforest, and visiting makes you understand a little better why anthropologist Dian Fossey chose to spend decades of her life here.

In recent years, Rwanda has used its proximity to the mountain gorillas to its advantage while respecting the species’ environment and way of life. A limited number of permits are issued each day for residents and visitors to embark on guided hikes into the mountains near Musanze in search of the silverbacks. I went with a group of eight into the thickets of Sabinyo (3634m), where we encountered 12 gorillas – one dominant male silverback, several females, younger adolescent males and three babies. Once you arrive at the gorilla troupe’s site (it changes day-to-day within a range of the forest – we hiked uphill for about 3 hours prior to our encounter), you are allowed to spend an hour with them observing their activities: eating, grooming, playing, resting, peeling back bamboo shoots and more. Videos and photos are permitted, but you are advised to keep a distance of about 3 meters and avoid prolonged eye-contact, particularly with the male silverback.

Hiking in Volcanoes National Park and spending time with mountain gorillas was an unforgettable experience. There is such a human quality to their demeanor, and while they don’t seem bothered by our presence in their natural habitat, they do express intrigue. Check out the photos and videos to get a sense of this.