Harmandir Sahib: Amritsar's Golden Temple

Less than 12 hours after arriving at Delhi’s Indira Gandhi Airport I was headed north. My friend Alisa has been living and volunteering in Jaipur, Rajasthan for several months, and after I procured my summer internship with UNICEF, we made a plan to travel together around north India during the week following my final exams, prior to the start of my internship. The city of Amritsar is about eight hours northwest of Delhi - accessible via train or bus - and home to Harmandir Sahib (Punjabi: Darbar Sahib) or Golden Temple, a sacred ground for Sikhs and a place of worship for all. As we learned from a new friend in our bustling sleeper class train ride out of Delhi, followers of the Sikh religion in India will often make multiple pilgrimages in their lifetime to this shrine, which comprises a large outer complex made of white marble, and the “pool of nectar of immortality” (the literal translation of Amritsar’s namesake) a body of water which surrounds the most precious gilded inner temple.

Shown above, the inner temple is made up of over 100 kilos (approximately 220 pounds) of gold and includes valuable artwork and precious gemstones and metals such as silver, ivory, pearl and lapis lazuli. Construction began in 1577 and the temple as it presently exists was completed in the late 1700s. The surrounding complex includes a dining hall, able to seat 35,000 people at one time, as well as sleeping quarters. All major components of the inner complex (including dormitories, dining hall and the inner temple) are open and free for all visitors of all faith traditions to enter 24 hours/day, 7 days/week. While many things struck me on my visit, I particularly admired the manner in which people moved in and out of the temple and the dining hall, which was at once inconspicuous, reverent and efficient.

Waiting in line to enter the inner temple took about 30 minutes. We formed a steady cloud of primarily Sikh men women and children but also included some Indian and international tourists. Every person removed footwear and covered his or her head with a scarf, bandana, hat or turban (dastar) upon entrance, and we slowly budged closer to the front as people exited the temple on the other side at their leisure. While it reached well over 100 degrees Fahrenheit by mid-day , we were not uncomfortable due to our position on a shaded strip below large fans. Once inside the temple, I watched one man chanting from the Holy Scripture (Adi Granth), while another played the harmonium, broadcast via speakers across the complex.

Many will present an offering of food like this (procured free of charge at the temple) or leave a donation while entering or exiting the inner temple.

A primary tenant of the Sikh religion is that all people are equal and should be treated as such. Going along these lines, tourists and foreign visitors are welcome to participate in the pilgrimage, meal and site activities as they see fit.

Waiting in line for lunch. Meals are served free of charge around the clock. Simple but filling meal of round wheat flat bread, black lentils in broth and a sweet rice pudding type dish (not shown). Anyone may also assist the hundreds of volunteers washing dishes after people have eaten. N.B. that plates provided were sparkling clean.